We get a lot of questions about kayaks and kayak fishing. We've summarized the most frequented topics here-
What kind of kayak should I buy? This is a loaded question and you won't find your answer on the message boards.Bottom line is it's a personal preference decision and you need to go out and get acquainted with some kayaks. So many factors to consider, such as your budget, where you will be fishing and how you will be fishing. Are you fishing surf/rough conditions, marsh, small lakes, all of the above? Will you flyfish? Is standing a "must". Are you paddling long distances or short? Will you take long distance paddle-only trips? Are you a flyfisherman? Are you light or heavy build? Do you only river or float fish? All of these factors play into the right kayak for you. The best thing you can do is get in kayaks and go paddling and/or fishing before your first purchase.
1) SOT- Are usually self bailing by their little holes through the hull that allow water to pass through. "Why?" you ask. And "won't I get wet?" We'll you're going to get wet in a kayak. The holes, or scuppers, allow water to flow in and out of the yak. You want this in the event water comes in, it can easily drain. They sell scupper plugs too if you choose to close them.
2) Hybrid- This is a cross between a canoe and a kayak. These have tunnel hulls which make them VERY stable. If you like to stand and/or flyfish, this could be your boat. These have no scuppers so you have to remove water yourself, which is where a car sponge or hand pump comes in handy.
3) Peddle Kayaks- The foot powered boats out there are excellent choices. You can cover a lot of water to get to working birds. Depends on your leg strenth vs upper body. Most who own them will tell you they go much further with much less effort. Drifting is much more efficient as you free up your arms to fish.
4) SINK- Sorry, can't really discuss this kayak intelligently other than we have member who fish out of them and like them.
1) Stringer- Stringers come in a variety of sizes, with and without floats. Many folks like to shorten their stringer to about 4' to keep fish from swimming far under and around your yak.
Pros- Secure your catch by not having to reach in ice chest. No ice to deal with. Option to release fish (if they survive)
Cons- Fish don't survive long. Having to pick up stringer if moving on to distant location. Can affect the paddling performance of your yak. Predators lurking about the waters especially sharks. We've seen many trophy trout, even CCA STAR contenders, lost to sharks.
2) Conventional Ice Chest- Hard top chest make it easy entry and quick open/close.
Pros- Keep fish, and more of them, fresh and cold for long periods. May be rigged with rod holder(s) for added functionality and storage. Easy to strap down with minimal engineering.
Cons- Ice weighs down fish. Wind catcher. Fish may actually jump themselves out of the chest.
3) Kayak Deck-Chest Zipper Bag- These are very nice and practical. The most durable can get expensive but they are form fitted and will fit many brand's deck compartment. Some have bungee straps built right onto the top of the bag which can very handy for strapping down stuff. Some are dual purpose w/ built in tackle and rod storage. Some have multiple compartments for separating food and fish.
Pros- Perfectly form fits rear compartment. Low profile keeps it out of wind. Multipurpose.
Cons- Zipper entry for each catch. Some are expensive. Size can be a challenge. Long-term durability
4) Soft Bag Ice Chest-
Pros- Very easy to carry on and off kayak. Perfect for the tournament angler. Grab bag and get in the weigh-in line.
Cons- Have to deal with the zipper entry for every catch
5) Floating net.
Pros- best chance for keeping fish alive for culling
Cons- Get in the way for paddling. Predators will still find fish. Not small
6) 5-Gallon Bucket and a block of ice
What can't you use a 5-gallon bucket for?
Most sit on top kayaks are very stable.
1) On top of vehicle- if you have a factory roof rack with bars that run across the width of the car then this is your cheapest route. Most kayaks can be laid upside down on the racks. Spend the money on good straps. The Yakima straps are some of the best straps on the market. Spend the money on them. If you don't purchase the straps buy some good ropes and learn a good tie down knot ("cajun come-along"). Strap down the bow of your yak to the hood area of your car and even the rear if you're going long distances. Many newer vehicles make you search for a good spot to run a rope through but it doesn't take much. You just need this 3rd rope as a security blanket.
Pros- least expensive route
Cons- Good potential to scratch up your kayak and vehicle
2)Aftermarket Rack Systems- Some excellent products on the market. Many options to carry multiple yaks on top of your vehicle. The most cost effective is to purchase bars that are long enough to support 2. There are more advanced systems to carry them on their sides or on the J-mounts.
Pros- Rack system on your vehicle (some like the look). Can hold 1-4 kayaks
Cons- Rack system on your vehicle (some don't like look). Noise. Not easy to remove. Additional costs (couple to several hundred dollars)
3) Trailer- Ok but takes away from the simplicity of throwing kayaks on top of 1 vehicle.
Pros- Can load up several kayaks and nothing on top of car
Cons- Hassle of towing a trailer.
4) Kayak Pads. Designed to sit flat on your vehicle or slide onto existing vehicle rack.